On July 10, 2025, an unassuming but iconic leather bag made fashion history in Paris. Jane Birkin’s original Hermès Birkin, the very first one sold for an eye-watering $10.1 million at Sotheby’s as part of their “Fashion Icons” sale. This wasn’t just a handbag exchange; it was a cultural moment. And it reminds us why fashion auctions matter more than ever.
The Birkin bag’s origin is a blend of function, fate, and fashion folklore. In 1984, actress and singer Jane Birkin was seated next to Hermès CEO Jean-Louis Dumas on a flight. As the story goes, she lamented the lack of practical yet elegant handbags. Dumas, ever the creative mind, sketched the prototype on an airplane sick bag. A year later, Jane was gifted the first-ever Birkin, a bag that would go on to become a status symbol, investment asset, and cultural phenomenon.
The original prototype, auctioned off, isn’t your average Birkin. It features a fixed shoulder strap (never made it into commercial production), brass hardware instead of the usual gold plating, smaller bottom studs, and even a built-in nail clipper attached to the zipper. Its most sentimental feature? Jane’s own initials, “J.B.,” subtly embossed on the flap.
Jane donated the bag in 1994 to support AIDS research, and it changed hands once again in 2000. Until now, it remained in private ownership. Leading up to the sale, Sotheby’s displayed the bag in New York and Paris, drawing fashion lovers, collectors, and curious onlookers eager to witness a true piece of fashion history.
The final price €7 million before fees, roughly $10.1 million after crushing all previous handbag auction records. The previous top honor belonged to a Hermès Himalaya Kelly that sold for just over $500,000. This sale more than doubles the highest known value for a handbag, marking a seismic shift in how fashion artifacts are valued.
Image Credit: Sotheby
Here’s why auctions like this matter in fashion:
1. They Preserve Cultural Legacy
When Jane Birkin’s prototype bag sells for $10 million, it’s not just a handbag, it’s a slice of pop culture. Birkins have been immortalized in Sex and the City, name-checked in countless rap lyrics, and studied in business schools as examples of scarcity-driven luxury. The auction isn’t just about owning a bag, but about owning a symbol.
2. They Add Historical Context
Auctions provide a platform for storytelling. Whether it’s Diana’s “Black Sheep” sweater or Freddie Mercury’s crown, these sales highlight the stories behind the items. They offer context, emotion, and meaning that go beyond product specs or retail price. The original Birkin wasn’t just designed for Jane, it was worn by her. That lived-in history matters.
3. They Cement Fashion’s Place in Fine Art and Investment
A $10 million handbag sale places fashion squarely in the same realm as fine art, sculpture, and architecture. More collectors now view fashion as a viable and lucrative investment. Limited edition pieces, archive designs, and personal items from legendary figures carry significant market value, and auction houses like Sotheby’s are helping institutionalize that shift.
4. They Inspire New Generations
Fashion auctions are also educational moments. For younger designers, stylists, and even fashion students, they offer a deep dive into design history and craftsmanship. Seeing how a simple sketch on a sick bag evolved into a $10 million cultural artifact is the kind of story that reminds us why fashion is never just surface-level.
Sotheby’s and similar auction houses have been slowly but surely building momentum in the fashion space. In recent years, they’ve broadened their lens looking beyond haute couture and rare jewelry to include personal wardrobes, archival sneakers, and symbolic accessories with pop-cultural relevance. With this sale, fashion auctions have entered a new chapter.
Jane Birkin’s $10 million bag sale is about more than luxury, it’s about legacy. It reflects how a single item, when fused with story, sentiment, and scarcity, can become something iconic. As fashion continues to embrace its role in art, culture, and commerce, auctions like these will only become more important not just for collectors, but for the culture at large.
Written By Thelma Anowaa
Thelma Anowaa is a fashion and lifestyle writer with a sharp eye for style and a love for good stories. When she’s not telling other people’s stories, she’s helping shape them, working as a PR consultant for brands that want to make noise and actually be heard.